# Garment...

## S K U

Keyboard Shortcut!!

This command opens a dialog that allows you to choose Garment Options that pertain to armhole depth and wearing ease. Experience has shown us that various people prefer their garments to fit differently. What one person feels is too loose, another person feels is too tight. Thus, this command allows you to customize how you like your armhole depths and general wearing ease. The check boxes and options that you choose here occur prior to any style changes and they happen globally for all styles. Once again, remember that if you set this setting via the Edit "New Garment Defaults" route, all documents will reflect the setting. Otherwise the change you make will affect the current document only. There will be times in which you want either situation, so enjoy the flexibility.

The Set Sleeve to Match Shoulder Slope checkbox pertains to Drop Shoulder, Square and Full Fashioned armhole/sleeve styles only. The option will appear dimmed in the Garment Options window until one of these styles is selected. When you choose to 'Set the Sleeve to Match Shoulder Slope', the sleeve is adjusted so that once 'set' into the armhole it will continue down in the same angle that the shoulder slopes. This removes some of the fullness that typically appears at the underarm area.

Enabling the Square Neckline/Shoulder Angle and Square Armhole/Side-Seam Angle check box cause Designer to square off angles of adjoining seams. This makes garment construction easier as joins are smooth. This is generally 'on' by default, but you may turn it off. Information on angles is provided in the Information and Recommendations Report (covered in the Generate menu discussions of this chapter). See Appendix E also for further details.

The Use Average Front/Back Measurements and Use Average Left/Right Measurements check boxes are designed to assist you, if in certain styles, you do not want your custom measurements to be used. The Drop Shoulder, Square Armhole and Full Fashioned and Cap sleeve styles generally cannot be made when the front and back pattern pieces differ in width. Garment Designer will either prompt you to explore averaging the measurements or it will do this automatically and these option boxes will become 'checked'. Appendix E explains some of the situations in which this may happen. You can also choose to use these check boxes when you do not need or want the differences between your front/back or left/right to affect the pattern. When you select these check boxes, the pattern averages itself to balance the front/back or left/right (or both), but your sloper remains unbalanced. Thus you can see how the pattern will work with your body.