# Sloper Tips

Tip

Tummy Measurements

If you have a gummy, you may want to take the Refine-Fit measurement of your hip in the following way. Hold a yard stick against your tummy and measure your hip, including the extra dimension caused by the yard stick. Although your total and front measurement will be larger than your physical body, your skirts will hang better and will not ‘cup in’ under the tummy. The side seams will lay in a better position.

Tip

Front/Back Measurements

If you do not enter separate Front/Back measurements, Garment Designer will divide the Total Measurement in half. You will not see the results of this, but the program will use them internally. You may choose to use as many or as few refined measurements as necessary to achieve the fit you desire.

Tip

Which Measurement Set Am I Using?

Whatever version of the sloper (Simple vs. Refined) is displayed when you click on the OK button in the Sloper dialog will become the measurement set that is used for your pattern.

Tip

To Check or Uncheck Sloper Measurements?

If you like to see all your measurements in the Sloper dialog, don’t uncheck a measurement box if both the F/B or L/R measurements are equal. Designer will not display the numbers the next time you uncheck the box, as it knows the numbers were equal, and thus does not display the numbers.

Tip

Editing Standard Sizes

Garment Designer will not let you overwrite a Standard Size, thus if you edit the measurements, you must rename the sloper.

Tip

Switching Fit Modes

If you want, you can move from a Simple-Fit to a Refined-Fit sloper by clicking on the Switch to Refined-Fit button. When you are done, Designer will use the measurements of whichever mode is displayed at the time of closing the window.

Tip

Overriding Custom Measurements

To override the use of Front/Back or Left/Right measurements, simply turn the check box for that number 'off' in the Sloper dialog. You may do this project by project. When the check box is 'off' the program averages or halves the numbers accordingly.

OR

Choose the Garment... submenu from the Option menu and use the averaging option.

On certain style combinations, Designer will ask you if it can average measurements. This may be necessary to make the pattern work.

Tip

Sloper Dialog Checkboxes

Only turn on the check boxes for those measurements you intend to use. Designer will insist that you complete all fields that are open and displayed.

Tip

Refined vs. Simple Fit

To understand Refined Fit vs. Simple-Fit, print out and assemble some trial patterns in your size to see the relationship.

Tip

Entering Measurements

If you want to edit a set of measurements in a Refined-Fit Sloper, it is sometimes easier to erase all three measurements (e.g. total, left and right), as Designer's auto-math functions can sometimes confuse you until you understand how they work.

Tip

If a measurement is blank, or not entered in a manner that Designer can use, the program will alert you.

Tip

Working with Sloper Edits

If the last sloper you used involved edited measurements, you will need to discard the edits or save the sloper before Garment Designer will let you create a new sloper.

Tip

The Dressmaker's Armhole

If you use Standard Sizes, you may choose the Dressmaker's Armhole to create an armhole that nips in slightly.

Tip

Cross-Checking Measurements

Cross-check your measurements against the closest standard size if a measurement seems particularly strange.

Tip

Fit Chart

Photocopy the Fit Chart on page 5-22 so that you may use it for different people.

Tip

Build a Good Sloper

The more energy you put into getting good body measurements the less changes you will need to make to patterns. Invest your time here. The pattern always looks at the sloper and adds ease for the various styles.

Tip

Body Changes

If your body changes over time (with diet, health or aging), either edit the sloper or build a new one. In fact, you could have several slopers according to your weight or fitness level.