Webinar: Combining Knits and Fabrics

Webinar: Combining Knits and Fabrics

Tuesday, February 23rd, 2021 2 pm PT
Web-103.  More Info

Garment Designer allows you to create for both knitting and sewing. So, why not make garments that utilize both! In this webinar, you will learn how to plan for, and create garments that incorporate have both knit/crochet and sewn parts. Of course, this could also apply to knit fabric and woven combinations for those who don’t knit or crochet. The options are endless. Fashion inspiration as well as design how-to’s will be shown.

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We’ve listened to your feedback and will have the webinars available to review for attendees who sign up prior to the scheduled webinar but are unable to attend at that time. The video will be completely unedited, directly from the webinar meeting. It will be available for one week after the webinar is hosted. You must sign up prior to the scheduled date.
What do you Get with a Webinar?:
• Online webinar (60 – 70 minutes) (or access to the recording if you can’t attend)
• Handout in Advance
• Access for one week after the webinar to review the video as many times as you like
• PDF of the PowerPoint lecture (for personal use)
• 15% discount code for Cochenille Products (excluding software upgrades)
Webinars need a minimum of three participants to host. If we do not meet this minimum, the webinar will be canceled two days prior, so be sure to register early.
After registration, we will email you with the webinar invite and handout, one or two days prior to the scheduled time.

 

Webinar: It’s All About Me: Figure Analysis and Choose Styles

Webinar: It’s All About Me: Figure Analysis and Choose Styles

Wednesday, February 10th, 2021 11 am PT
Web-127   More Info

In pattern design, the goal is to make clothing that flatters. This webinar will teach you some basic skills on how to analyze yourself for silhouette, facial shape, and body proportions. You then will learn what garment styles are most appropriate for you. We will use various styles in Garment Designer to illustrate styles you should choose. In the end, you will be on your way to making wise decisions in your choice of silhouette, neckline, and accessorizing details in clothing design. For sewing and all textile arts.

Webinar: Working Creatively with the Symmetry Function in Garment Designer

Webinar: Working Creatively with the Symmetry Function in Garment Designer

The Symmetry function in Garment Designer is a powerful feature to use when designing patterns. Susan will help you understand how to use symmetry effectively and creatively so that you can get the most out of this feature. You will learn the difference between Mirror and Give/Take symmetries, and the best approaches to use when designing. You will see Susan build multiple fashion garments using the Symmetry function to its fuller. By the end, you should feel more confident to use this incredible tool for both design and fit.

We’ve listened to your feedback and will have the webinars available to review for attendees who sign up prior to the scheduled webinar but are unable to attend at that time. The video will be completely unedited, directly from the webinar meeting. It will be available for three days after the webinar is hosted.You must sign up prior to the scheduled date.

For those who have not yet attended, a webinar is a 60 to 70 minutes online class to include Lecture, Question & Answer and PDF Handouts for personal use.

Webinars need a minimum of three participants to host. If we do not meet this minimum, the webinar will be cancelled two days prior, so be sure to register early.

After registration, we will contact you with the meeting information, one or two days prior to the scheduled time.

Webinar- Garment Designer: Step-by-Step Knittings

Webinar- Garment Designer: Step-by-Step Knittings

Garment Designer: Step-by-Step Knitting

Tuesday, April 14th, 10 a.m. Pacific Time
Get started making knit patterns in Garment Designer! In this webinar Susan will show you how to use Garment Designer to design a knit project. This webinar will help you master the Shaping Instructions, generate shaping charts for regular, top-down, bottom-up, sideways and diagonal knitting. You will learn tips and tweaks to make your next knitting project a breeze.

Webinars are 60 to 70 minute classes. They include:

  • A handout prior to the lecture
  • The online class with a full lecture and demonstration.
  • The ability to ask questions and get answers (Live webinar only)
  • A PDF copy of the PowerPoint after the class (for personal use only)
  • The ability to view a recording of the webinar for 72 hours after the webinar

If you have never attended a webinar before and would like more information on what is involved, please feel free to contact us.

*Webinars need a minimum of three participants to host. If we do not meet this minimum the webinar will be cancelled two days prior, so be sure to register early.

Can’t make it to the scheduled time? No worries! Sign up and watch it later.

We will have the webinars available to review for attendees who sign up prior to the scheduled webinar, but are unable to attend at that time. The video will be completely unedited, directly from the webinar meeting. It will be available to review for three days after the webinar is hosted, and you will still receive the handouts. You will still receive all handouts.

The Pinch Test: Understanding Ease in Clothing

The Pinch Test: The Key to Understanding Fit in Clothing

By Susan Lazear

Sometimes the simplest things in life are the ones we don’t easily see. I would say this is true with sewers and knitters, and crocheters when it comes to understanding how much ease they like in their clothing. When I’m teaching patternmaking or fitting, and helping people create or edit patterns for themselves, I’ll often ask individuals how much ease they want in the style. And.. I’m often met with a questioning stare. There are some simple tactic, which I term “Understanding your Fit Preferences” and one of these involves an understanding of the ease you like in your garments.

What is Ease?

There are two types of ease: wearing and style. Wearing ease is what you need in a garment to breathe, sit, and move. On average, based on a size 10/12, one needs 2 inches at the bust and hips and 1 inch at the waist. This increases/decreases slightly if your body size is larger or smaller, respectively. Of course, if there is spandex in the fabric or you are working with a knit, you don’t need as much. Style ease is the added ease that helps define the style. An oversized boxy garment could have 32 inches of ease at bust/hip, and a fitted jacket might have simply the wearing ease of 2 inches at bust/hip.

If you are going to design or edit patterns for sewing, or fit commercial patterns prior to cutting them out, you need to develop a sense of how much ease you want in the garment. If you are going to knit or crochet, you need to take the time to understand the schematic of your pattern, and if it is not provided, you should make one based on stitches/rows and your gauge.  The best way to understand your personal ease preferences to make a date with your closet and use what I lovingly call the ‘Pinch Test’.

The Pinch Test

The Pinch Test involves simply putting a garment on, and pinching out the ease at the appropriate places, typically the bust and/or hip. Pay attention to the weight and drape of the fabric as this plays a key role in the amount of ease used. Typically, garments made with soft fluid fabrics may have much more ease than garments made with stiffer fabrics. Measure the pinch and multiply it by four to calculate how much ease is in the garment. For example, if you get a two-inch pinch, you will have eight inches of ease in the garment in total (2” X4, which includes the left and right, front and back). The goal is to learn as much as you can about your favorite garments, and ease preferences is a key item.

So, grab a notebook, a measuring tape, and a handful of your favorite pieces. Begin by measuring your own body measurements to notate your bust, waist. and hip. Now, make a chart and create columns; Garment, Style, Fabric, Ease Pinch: Bust, Ease Pinch: Waist, Ease Pinch: Hip.

Suggested Chart for Documenting Ease

Put a garment on and pinch out the ease. It helps to hold the center of the garment in place, as you pinch at the side. Now, measure the depth of the pinch. Write it down. Continue through your group of garments, completing the chart as you go.

Pinching and Measuring Ease at the Bust
Pinching and Measuring Ease at the Hip

Photos:

If you multiply the pinch depth by four and add it to your body measurement, you will know the circumference of the garment at that point.

Try a couple of different garments that have different fabrics, and levels of fit. My black top is fitted at the bust, but is an A-line, so less fitted at the hips. It has a 5/8” pinch at the bust which equals 2-1/2” total ease. (5/8” X 4). At the hips I get a 3” pinch which equates to 12 total inches of ease. If I add those two measurements to my body measurements (38” bust and 40” hip), then I can see that my pattern would need a total perimeter of 40-1/2” at the bust and 52” at the hip.

My print jacket is a semi-fitted double-knit which has some ‘body’ to the fabric. Both my bust and hip pinches are the same at 1-5/8”. Thus, the total ease at both the bust and hip is 6-1/2”.

Calculating ease in my print jacket.

My orange sweater is made with a firm knit, and it is a boxy style. The bust pinch is 3 inches and the hip pinch is 2-3/4 inches equaling a total of 12 inches ease at the bust and 11 inches of ease at the hip.

Calculating ease in my orange sweater.

Not only is the information you gain from the pinch test handy; it is invaluable. Use it prior to scrutinizing a commercial pattern, prior to cutting your fabric, or to adding ease when you are drafting your own. You have just given yourself the ammunition you need to create or modify patterns so that there is no surprise or disappointment… and what about the elimination of muslin sample? Now, that is cool!

You can seem my notations in the chart I created in Excel. Eventually, this information will become ingrained, as it moves to knowledge as opposed to data.

Recording Information.

Using What You Have Learned

There are many ways to use the knowledge you have just gained:

  • If I were working with commercial sewing patterns, I would lay the pattern flat on the table and measure its width at bust/waist/hip. Then, by subtracting your bust/waist/hip, you can easily calculate how much ease is built into the style and determine if it suits your fit preferences, given the choice of fabric. If it doesn’t modify the pattern.
  • If I were going to knit or crochet a pattern, I’d look at the schematic and compare it to my body + ease measurements to see if the pattern and its ease suit my taste and the hand/drape of the knit/crochet swatch I just made. If it doesn’t modify the pattern.
  • When I design patterns (by hand or on computer), I am beginning with my body and a style, and so I simply ensure that I have the desired ease.
  • Garment Designer software users can look at the ease easily when they create patterns, and if the Sloper is turned on, it is easy to see and measure the ease in any style. So, pinch test information can slide directly over to the pattern.
Viewing the ease in Garment Designer… can it get any simpler?

Over Time….

Keep adding to your chart; in fact, make it become a morning mantra to pinch out the ease on whatever garment you are wearing for the day. Always make a mental note of the style (fitted, semi-fitted, average, over-size, etc.), and the fabric.  Soon you won’t need to refer to the chart, and you will simply ‘know’.

Perk?

The Pinch Test is a great tool to use in the dressing room when you are trying on clothing. I use it all the time to evaluate a style so I can recreate it at home. I’ve gotten pretty good at eyeing the depth of my pinch and determining how many inches it is.

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