Cochenille Design Studio
American Sewing Guild Conference

American Sewing Guild Conference

2020 American Sewing Guild National Conference, San Antonio, TX

Join Cochenille Design Studio at the ASG National Conference. Susan will be teaching an assortment of classes and will also have a booth at the show.

Fashion & Design Retreat in France 2020

Fashion & Design  Retreat in France 2020

Lyon, France

May 20th – 29th, 2020 

Calling all Fiber Art and Fashion enthusiasts!                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    At the end of May of 2020 we will once again be working in partnership with the French company called Label Graine to offer a Digital Printing Workshop at their location in Valsonne, France, near Lyon. This company digitally prints fabrics and has recently redesigned a portion of their space to suit workshops for designers, students, or others who want to involve digital printing in their creative life.

Please download the Trip Brochure and requires Registration Form below for costs, activities and details.

France Fashion and Design Retreat 2020 Flyer

Editable Registration Form 

You can secure your spot by sending in your deposit at the following Shopify link:

If you would like to send payment for the 3-night Dinner Package in Lyon, please add the following product to your cart on our webstore:

If you would like to send payment for the Single Supplement Fee you can do so at the following link:

If you have any questions, please email the Cochenille Office at or Susan at


Webinar- Fit Preferences: Understanding how you like your clothes to fit

Webinar- Fit Preferences: Understanding how you like your clothes to fit

Fit Preferences: Understanding how you like your clothes to fit

Learn techniques and measurements that will help you to understand how you like your clothing to fit. There is magic to the knowledge in that it will guide you to creating clothing (sewn/knit/otherwise) that you are comfortable wearing. No more surprises. Whether you are creating your own patterns with Garment Designer, drafting by hand, or are altering commercial patterns, knowing your fit preferences will help you make wise decisions. Handouts include a worksheet for your reference.

Garment Designer Top: African Influence

Recently, I oversaw a project at Mesa College in San Diego, which involved a partnership between our Fashion students, the Mesa African Art collection, and Visions Art Museum in San Diego Liberty Station.

There were several aspects to the project, but the final activity was a fashion show featuring African-influenced clothing. Many of the garments came from my Textile Design students in my Fall semester class. I decided that I too needed to get involved, and so embarked on two different design projects. In this blog, I’ll share the first with you.

My source of inspiration was a piece of carved wood. Sad to say, I don’t know future details, only that I took the photo while we were visiting the artifact collection.

Since the original wood piece was rounded, I had to use Photoshop to straighten it out a bit.

Photo of Inspiration: from a piece of carved wood

I wanted the garment to be relatively simple, free of internal structural lines, so that the wood imagery would be seen as it was designed.

Below is the pattern I settled on. This was taken from a top I own that I purchased in Japan.

The pattern created in Garment Designer pattern software

In Garment Designer, I set the page size to be the size of the pattern, and then saved the pattern as a PDF.

Then.. on to Photoshop.

There I opened the large pattern pieces (each on a separate page), and I brought them together into one document. The width of this document was set up to the width of the fabric I wanted to print on (which was a polyester chiffon, 58” wide).

Pattern pieces laid into Photoshop

Working between the imagery document and the Garment Designer pattern document, I used Selection tools, and copy/paste to bring the images in.  I orchestrated a border effect on the bottom and stretched the imagery to fill the space above. You can see the results below.

Garment Designer pattern in Photoshop, with the imagery engineered into place

Once I had the layout ready, I threw in some variations of the pattern off to the side of each pattern piece, so I would have fabric to trim the neckline and armholes during the sewing process.

Extra imagery is added to the file to provide trim fabric

The next step was to upload to Spoonflower in North Carolina.

The order process on Spoonflower, digital printing of fabric

And then to wait until the fabric arrived, which of course was only a few days before the fashion show… so time to sew!!

One of the beautiful things about engineered design, is that you don’t ever print a paper pattern. Instead, your fabric arrives with the garment piece all laid out and ready to cut. Here is my fabric just before cutting.

Fabric ready to be cut. Note how similar this is to a cookie cutter approach!

I used some of the trim areas to make the binding for the neckline and armholes. These were cut on the bias and applied to finish the edges. The most challenging part of the construction was sewing chiffon on a bias grain. I simply serged the edge, pressed it under and top stitched it in place, attempting to have minimal handling.

The garment was complete, and ready for the show.

See how the back cut is different from the front.
The final garment, yea!

I only have one shot from the show, a rear-view, but as you can see, it was modelled.

Garment being modeled at the Fashion Show at Visions Art Museum in San Diego, CA

So, another ‘done’ project. I love to have a motivator (such as a fashion show) which gives me the reason to move ‘To Do’ items up the list of priorities.

And I course, I love Garment Designer. It is such a creative tool; I can do most anything with it and in very short order, and of course, because it knows my body measurements, I never have to alter. Can life get any better?

Armhole Sleeve Relationships

Armhole Sleeve Relationships

If you alter patterns, or want to draft them ‘from scratch’,
Susan will teach you the basics of armhole and sleeve combinations.
Understand how changes made to the armhole affect the sleeve and enjoy
learning how to draft/create a multitude of sleeve styles. Garment Designer
will be used to demonstrate examples.

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