Cochenille Design Studio

Transferring a Flat Pattern to Garment Designer

Transferring a Flat Pattern to Garment Designer

Hello Everyone and Happy Valentines Day!

We haven’t posted in a while since we have been busy making downloadable webinar videos and gearing up for Stitches West 2018. It’s about time that I share another Garment Designer transformation, but this time I will show you how I copied one of my flat patterns onto Garment Designer and transformed a style set in the process.

So here we go!

I have a pattern for a pair of shorts I hand-drafted long ago, I just keep tracing them/modifying them when needed (which is often since they were made for a specific stretch fabric). I decided it was high time to transfer it over to Garment Designer so that I can just make the modifications I need easily and print it out whenever I please.

I taped my pattern down and grabbed my pencil, notebook and assorted rulers. I chose later on to use my Hurth Ruler instead of using multiple rulers.

First I need to get some measurements from my pattern. I generally sketch this out by hand in a notebook, but I made it nice and pretty for this post. This is the front pattern piece, you would do the same for the back:

You will notice that I am measuring the pattern itself, as well as the negative space which is important to include. This is where the Hurth Ruler came in handy for me:

I also take my measurements starting at the top left and making my way around clockwise so I don’t miss anything.

After I am done taking my measurements, I do a little cross-check to make sure everything adds up. For example in the picture below #1 should be equal to k+l+a+b and so on with #2, #3 and #4…

When I had all my measurements and checked them over I was ready to go over to Garment Designer!

Now I know what some of you are thinking…”I haven’t seen a shorts style set like that in Garment Designer…”. It’s time we think out of the box again! I just needed to find a style set to transform, which was easy enough. Can you guess which one I chose?

If you thought bell bottoms, you were right! Why did I choose this? Well I knew I needed a curved hem for the leg holes, and I know the bell bottoms has bezier curves at the hem (circular points=bezier handles)

I turned my front/back symmetry off just because I knew I had major differences from front to back and I had all the measurements I needed to adjust each piece.

Don’t forget about the little Symmetry Options shortcut in the bottom left corner. I clicked it and it displayed my Symmetry Options.

Then, with my dimensions turned on (Display>Show Dimensions), I started matching up the pattern on Garment Designer to my sketch. I also switched over to decimals duringthis time to be a little more precise.

The Garment Designer warning message popped up, which was to be expected when making these kinds of changes. I checked the box so it wouldn’t bother me anymore and continued. If you’re unfamiliar with what this is, see this video or look in your manual:

 

I made a slideshow showing how I was adjusting some of the points:

Something to note: I ended up having to put a couple points close together to essentially ‘merge’ them (you’ll have to really zoom in to see the two points). You can zoom in on Garment Designer by going to your Display menu and going to ‘Scale To’, then choosing your zoom factor.

It is worth the time to learn the keyboard shortcuts for scaling. You can find these shortcuts in the shortcuts handout located in your Help Sheets folder within the Garment Designer Folder.

Near the end, once I have my dimensions matching and all I need to do is fix some of the curves, I will go back and measure the actual lengths of the segments on my pattern and compare them to the segments on Garments Designer and adjust the curves as necessary. If I need a curved segment to be longer I add more of a curve to the segment, if it needs to be shorter I straighten the segment out.

I also used this opportunity to make any changes I had been meaning to make to the flat pattern, which in this case was changing the leg hole and crotch shape. If I want to change it some more, I now have it on Garment Designer which will make modifying the shape easy (and will save me on some pattern paper!)

FRONT PATTERN

BACK PATTERN

Once I had my basic shorts pattern in Garment Designer I was easily able to modify it for my bloomers pattern. It is a fun pattern I have used in the past for costumes that I based off my shorts pattern. In Garment Designer, it was just a matter of expanding the pattern for gathering.

I was also able to mark my channels by using the facing option in Garment Designer. Susan has taught me that using the facings option is a great way to create a demarcation on a garment.

Thank you for reading and good luck on your next Garment Designer project!

Three Garments Three Patterns

Three Garments Three Patterns

Three Garments, Three Patterns

Three Garments Three Patterns will be using three sources of inspiration; a store window, an actual garment, and a magazine clipping. Susan will walk you through the steps analysis and then building the pattern in Garment Designer. Non-traditional styles will be chosen in order for you to see how one can push the edge a little and use the creative functions of Garment Designer.

For those who have not yet attended, a webinar is a 60 to 70 minute online class to include Lecture, Question & Answer and PDF Handouts for personal use. This is a live class and cannot be viewed later if purchased.

Webinars need a minimum of three participants to host. If we do not meet this minimum the webinar will be cancelled two days prior, so be sure to register early.

After registration, we will contact you with the meeting information.

 

Webinar hosted in Pacific Time.

20 Pattern Guidelines

20 Pattern Guidelines

20 Pattern Guidelines

20 Pattern Guidelines for your patterning knowledge bank! If you alter or create your own patterns, then it’s time you increase your knowledge of pattern rules that professionals know and understand. In the class you will see how simple it can be…if you understand the basics. Study the anatomy of a pattern, learn how to change it properly and how to relate ease to fit. This is a great webinar to review or learn important patterning fundamentals. Garment Designer will be used to demonstrate examples.

For those who have not yet attended, a webinar is a 60 to 70 minute online class to include Lecture, Question & Answer and PDF Handouts for personal use. This is a live class and cannot be viewed later if purchased.

Webinars need a minimum of three participants to host. If we do not meet this minimum the webinar will be cancelled two days prior, so be sure to register early.

After registration, we will contact you with the meeting information.

Webinar hosted in Pacific Time.

Creativ Festival

Creativ Festival

Since 1988, Creativ Festival is Canada’s largest DIY consumer show dedicated to the creative arts of sewing, knitting, beading, spinning, weaving, felting, quilting, crocheting, stitching, scrapbooking, crafting and other fibre, textile, needle and paper arts. 

Cochenille will be at booth #121, stop by for a chat!

Susan will be hosting the following seminars:

CHANGE IT UP! Learn how to use a favorite pattern as an anchor piece and change it up to create variations on a theme. Change the neckline, add a style feature, fashion it up or down. In the end, you have multiple patterns, each one a bit different, and all should become staples in your wardrobe. Students will work on some basic ideas presented in class to develop a mini collection of ideas to take home and execute.

1.5 Hour Seminar | Thurs 1:00 – 2:30 (Aviation C1)

PATTERN SOFTWARE … IS IT FOR YOU? Tired of all the pattern alterations? Maybe it is time to consider letting the computer aid you in obtaining patterns that are better suited to your proportions. This class will focus on a discussion of considerations one should make when working with software; what measurements are important, trouble fit areas, the use of master patterns, pattern editing for fit and creativity, etc. Learn how just possibly, computer software can be your ally. Garment Designer for Windows/ Mac will be used as the demonstration tool, but the same thought processes are necessary for other programs 1.5 Hour Seminar | Fri 9:00 – 10:30 (Aviation C1)

THE ASIAN AESTHETIC: CREATIVITY WITH SIMPLE SHAPES Japanese fashion designers have reinvented simple and traditional garment shapes for years. This lecture will inspire you with their creativity, and a discussion of how to go beyond the rectangle when building unique and fashionable garments. This class is suitable for pattern development for many textile arts. 1.5 Hour Seminar | Fri 1:00 – 2:30 (Aviation C1)

KNOCK-OFFS AND ADAPTATIONS The process of ‘knocking off’ and/or adapting a garment is really not that difficult. Susan will show you how to analyze photos, pictures and even actual garments to determine how one creates them, either by modifying existing patterns, or by creating your own with pattern design software. Learn how to analyze your fit preferences, determine the design details and translate these to a paper pattern. You will be amazed at how easy the process can be. Demonstration will be with paper patterns and Garment Designer software. For non-computer and computer people. 1.5 Hour Seminar | Sat 3:00 – 4:30 (Aviation C1)

For more info:

http://www.csnf.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/CFF17-brochure-web.pdf

From Fashion Windows to Actual Garments #2

From Fashion Windows to Actual Garments #2

From Fashion Windows to Actual Garments #2

From Fashion Windows to Actual Garments is the newest webinar we will be hosting.

Susan has returned from her Italy and France trip which means she has new windows, new garments and new fashions to show you how to translate using Garment Designer!

From Fashion Windows to Actual Garments webinar will take you through the process of analyzing the fashions you see in store windows, online or elsewhere and then building the pattern in Garment Designer.

Learn some great Garment Designer and patterning tips and turn your next window shopping experience or pinterest board into actual garments. A series of different garments will be shown and used in this workshop. You will learn how to interpret the styles and how to creatively use your software to make the pattern.

For those who have not yet attended, a webinar is a 60 to 70 minute online class to include Lecture, Question & Answer and PDF Handouts for personal use. This is a live class and cannot be viewed later if purchased.

Webinars need a minimum of three participants to host. If we do not meet this minimum the webinar will be cancelled two days prior, so be sure to register early.

After registration, we will contact you with the meeting information.

 

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