Cochenille Design Studio
Webinar- Fit Preferences: Understanding how you like your clothes to fit

Webinar- Fit Preferences: Understanding how you like your clothes to fit

Fit Preferences: Understanding how you like your clothes to fit

Learn techniques and measurements that will help you to understand how you like your clothing to fit. There is magic to the knowledge in that it will guide you to creating clothing (sewn/knit/otherwise) that you are comfortable wearing. No more surprises. Whether you are creating your own patterns with Garment Designer, drafting by hand, or are altering commercial patterns, knowing your fit preferences will help you make wise decisions. Handouts include a worksheet for your reference.

Garment Designer Top: African Influence

Recently, I oversaw a project at Mesa College in San Diego, which involved a partnership between our Fashion students, the Mesa African Art collection, and Visions Art Museum in San Diego Liberty Station.

There were several aspects to the project, but the final activity was a fashion show featuring African-influenced clothing. Many of the garments came from my Textile Design students in my Fall semester class. I decided that I too needed to get involved, and so embarked on two different design projects. In this blog, I’ll share the first with you.

My source of inspiration was a piece of carved wood. Sad to say, I don’t know future details, only that I took the photo while we were visiting the artifact collection.

Since the original wood piece was rounded, I had to use Photoshop to straighten it out a bit.

Photo of Inspiration: from a piece of carved wood

I wanted the garment to be relatively simple, free of internal structural lines, so that the wood imagery would be seen as it was designed.

Below is the pattern I settled on. This was taken from a top I own that I purchased in Japan.

The pattern created in Garment Designer pattern software

In Garment Designer, I set the page size to be the size of the pattern, and then saved the pattern as a PDF.

Then.. on to Photoshop.

There I opened the large pattern pieces (each on a separate page), and I brought them together into one document. The width of this document was set up to the width of the fabric I wanted to print on (which was a polyester chiffon, 58” wide).

Pattern pieces laid into Photoshop

Working between the imagery document and the Garment Designer pattern document, I used Selection tools, and copy/paste to bring the images in.  I orchestrated a border effect on the bottom and stretched the imagery to fill the space above. You can see the results below.

Garment Designer pattern in Photoshop, with the imagery engineered into place

Once I had the layout ready, I threw in some variations of the pattern off to the side of each pattern piece, so I would have fabric to trim the neckline and armholes during the sewing process.

Extra imagery is added to the file to provide trim fabric

The next step was to upload to Spoonflower in North Carolina.

The order process on Spoonflower, digital printing of fabric

And then to wait until the fabric arrived, which of course was only a few days before the fashion show… so time to sew!!

One of the beautiful things about engineered design, is that you don’t ever print a paper pattern. Instead, your fabric arrives with the garment piece all laid out and ready to cut. Here is my fabric just before cutting.

Fabric ready to be cut. Note how similar this is to a cookie cutter approach!

I used some of the trim areas to make the binding for the neckline and armholes. These were cut on the bias and applied to finish the edges. The most challenging part of the construction was sewing chiffon on a bias grain. I simply serged the edge, pressed it under and top stitched it in place, attempting to have minimal handling.

The garment was complete, and ready for the show.

See how the back cut is different from the front.
The final garment, yea!

I only have one shot from the show, a rear-view, but as you can see, it was modelled.

Garment being modeled at the Fashion Show at Visions Art Museum in San Diego, CA

So, another ‘done’ project. I love to have a motivator (such as a fashion show) which gives me the reason to move ‘To Do’ items up the list of priorities.

And I course, I love Garment Designer. It is such a creative tool; I can do most anything with it and in very short order, and of course, because it knows my body measurements, I never have to alter. Can life get any better?

Variations on a Theme

Variations on a Theme

Variations on a Theme

Just as music has variations to a theme, so can we, using Garment Designer. In this webinar, you will learn how to take one pattern and apply different variations to it to create multiple looks. This is an ideal approach for anyone who has a garment they love, and want more mileage from. The inspiration garment for this webinar comes from Italy.

For those who have not yet attended, a webinar is a 60 to 70 minute online class to include Lecture, Question & Answer and PDF Handouts for personal use. This is a live class and cannot be viewed later if purchased.

***Webinars need a minimum of three participants to host. If we do not meet this minimum the webinar will be cancelled two days prior, so be sure to register early.

After registration, we will contact you with the meeting information.

Webinars  will be available to review for attendees who sign up prior to the scheduled webinar but are unable to attend at that time. The video will be completely unedited, directly from the webinar meeting. It will be available for three days after the webinar is hosted. You must sign up prior to the scheduled date.

 

American Sewing Guild Conference 2018

The ASG annual Conference is a once-a-year opportunity for sewing enthusiasts to gather to celebrate all things sewing, quilting and embroidery. This conference is open to members and non-members and will be hosted at Westgate Las Vegas Resort July 12-15 2018.

Susan Lazear will be hosting three classes at the conference, please see the class descriptions below.

How Body Measurements Relate to Your Pattern 

Friday, July 13 2018, 8:15 am to 10:15 am

A little knowledge up front goes a long way to fit and great looking clothing.  In this lecture, you will learn how to take meaningful and accurate body measurements. Then, we will take it one step further to discuss which parts of a pattern are impacted by proper and improper measurements. You will leave with a greater understanding of why some patterns work and others don’t, and you can apply your knowledge to correct patterns, based on your measurements before you even cut the fabric.

The Creative Process: From Inspiration to Planned Garment  

Saturday, July 14 2018, 8:15 am to 4:00 pm

This workshop will take your through the creative process, from story boarding your ideas, to developing a plan for a group of garments that work with your figure and your sense of style. No art background necessary. Learn how to ideate and create. Student will develop an inspiration board of ideas, and then move on to plan the fabrication, color story, styles, and fabrication for a group of garments. This is the process typical to designing a line of clothing.

Class Materials List:

  • Fashion magazines/mail order catalogs of fashion clothing or printouts of pictures or patterns that you like.
  • Basic Art Supplies: White paper, paper scissors, colored pencils, glue stick, measuring tape, rulers, pad of tracing paper
  • 15×20 Elmer’s Foam Board (half of a full one, available at Michael’s, http://www.michaels.com/elmers-foam-board-white/10110205.html_
  • Fabric Swatches of fabrics you would consider using

Waistband Alternatives  

 Sunday, July 15 2018, 8:15 am to 10:15 am

Has your waist changed? Don’t give up on the skirts and pants you love.  Rather, learn some techniques for reworking your existing garments. Using various ideas gleaned from observing fashion and ready-to-wear, Susan Lazear will walk you through several techniques that you can utilize. Look also at what fashion is doing to allow clothing to fit a greater range of bodies.

American Sewing Guild Conference Class schedule and descriptions:

https://www.asg.org/files/conference/ASGConf18_Classes.pdf

American Sewing Guild Conference Website:

https://www.asg.org/resources/conference/

New! Let’s Get Organized Webinar

New! Let’s Get Organized Webinar

Let’s Get Organized Webinar

Most creative people have a lot of ‘stuff’.  In this webinar, you will learn how to organize your books, fabrics, trims, and any other creative material, both physically and mentally. Susan will share with you traditional organizing skills and the latest in helpful equipment and tools.

For those who have not yet attended, a webinar is a 60 to 70 minute online class to include Lecture, Question & Answer and PDF Handouts for personal use. This is a live class and cannot be viewed later if purchased.

Webinars need a minimum of three participants to host. If we do not meet this minimum the webinar will be cancelled two days prior, so be sure to register early.

After registration, we will contact you with the meeting information.

Theme: Overlay by Kaira © Cochenille Design Studio 2019