Designing with minimal waste is a sustainable practice that has gained momentum in the past few years. However, in my opinion, it tends to lead one into ethnic-styled patterns that are very geometric in shape such as a kimono, blog coat, or other. Recently I made a top, and although most ideas of the style were simple shapes, there were still voids in the neckline and shoulder slope areas.
![](https://www.cochenille.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/01/IMG_8146-5.jpg)
So, my challenge and approach to Zero Waste was two-fold;
1. Design with relatively simple shapes, but with a bit of style
2. Use of the fabric from the void areas.
Here was my inspiration garment found on Pinterest. I thought the wide yoke and gathered panel below would be quite efficient on fabric use.
![](https://www.cochenille.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/01/Inspiration-1.jpg)
Fabric Choice
I chose a fabric that I had purchased overseas and loved the print. It is a voile-type fabric, but it has a burn-out effect that results in areas of the fabric being more see-through. It was not necessarily the best choice to show off the yoke and gather details, but it was a smaller piece of fabric, and I had enough. Since it was somewhat see-through, I knew that the gathered panel, sewn on to the yoke would be a good way to camouflage the bra worn underneath the top.
Creating the Pattern
Using Garment Designer pattern software (www.cochenille.com) I created the pattern below, keeping in mind the width of the fabric and the minimal yardage I had.
![](https://www.cochenille.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/01/top_Pattern.jpg)
Garment Designer allows you to create a pattern layout to see how much fabric you might need. Below you can see about how much waste there would be.
![](https://www.cochenille.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/01/patternlayout.jpg)
Constructing the Garment and Using the Waste
I constructed the garment, and then challenged myself to use up the waste in a creative way.
So, I decided to make a little brooch to wear with the top. Again, the busy print won’t allow one to see it readily, but I like hidden details that one notices when they are close-up/
I used my serger and a narrow-hem to finish several long triangular piece, and I left tails just for the fun of it. I created a bow using two rectangular pieces of cloth, one for the bow and one for the strip that the bow passed through. Finally, I checked out my button stash and found two buttons that could be sewn on top, to add a little more detail to the piece.
![](https://www.cochenille.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/01/IMG_8152.jpg)
![](https://www.cochenille.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/01/IMG_8149.jpg)
So, the next time you plan a garment.. think ahead a bit about how to be more efficient in the patternmaking but also how to use the left-overs in some creative way.
Susan..