Cochenille Design Studio

Garment Designer: Extra Extras! Read all about it!

Patterning Using Garment Designer: Extra Extras! Read all about it!

Hello All!

I’ve been meaning to post some more details on how I made this fun top on Garment Designer using the Extras menu on Garment Designer.

I started off with a waist length contoured top with a boat neck and a bust dart then modified the pattern points.


I moved my dart down to make a french dart.

I brought the front neckline down a bit, shortened the sleeve and tried to get as little ease as possible since I wanted it to be pretty fitted for my knit fabric.

I also chose to use the Dressmaking Armhole since this style allows the front armhole to swing in slightly in the front, make a more comfortable fit for a top like this.

Now the fun part…adding the extras!

To add a collar, I went to the Extras menu and selected ‘Joined at Back‘.

This presented me with my collar options:

I wanted a full stand and used the band option. I made my band about 3″ tall on the pattern, as I wold be folding it in half for a 1- 1/2″ tall collar.

Then I added my sleeve and peplum edgings from the Extras menu to add some flounces.

If you take a look at my sleeve edging, you will see I chose the longest option I could, which was 6″… but I wanted 8″.

I could have added a 2″ custom seam allowance to the sleeve edging (Additions > Custom Sleeve Allowance or keyboard shortcut ⌘+K).

Instead I chose to highlight the edge I wanted to extend, then added a 2″ extension (Additions > Add Extension)

I chose to attach at a 1:1 ratio so that the seam didn’t get too thick. I then added a 3:1 ratio for maximum flare.I did the same thing for my peplum by adding an edging to the hem of the shirt. I kept it at 6″ but elongated the back to 8″ and then played with the points to smooth the transition of the hem at the sides.

I added my seam allowances (1/4″ since I was using a knit fabric and will be using my serger) and printed it all out.

Cut it out of my fashion fabric…

Then began the sewing!

Since I just had to make this out of a white knit, I thought I would line the bodice with white for modesty.

I chose to use a white interlock fabric.

I will say in advance that the way I sewed this top up isn’t the only  way, just the way I chose to order my steps as I went.

I wanted to have a clean seam at the neckline so my first step was to sew the shoulder seams of my fashion fabric then separately I sewed the shoulder seams of my lining.

I also made sure to mark my darts and really carefully snip out my notches. Normally to mark notches on a 1/4 seam I would cut outward triangles but this was a quick project so I went with tiny snips.

I sewed the center back of the collar together, folded it at the fold line and then made a long basting stitch in the seam allowance.I then basted the collar, right sides together, to the fashion fabric. 

Then I pinned my lining on, sandwiching the collar between the self fabric and the lining, with my finished seams facing inwards towards each other.


I sewed the lining, collar and self fabric together then turned… No raw edge on the collar anymore!

I had marked my darts earlier and decided to sew them together by basting the pieces together, then sewing the dart closed.

Then I made a basting stitch around all the remaining edges

Instead of closing the side seam and setting the sleeves into the armscye, I sewed them in flat and left the side seam open.

I also added the sleeve edging at this point. I could have added the peplum too, but decided for no particular reason to leave it until last.

The last steps were sewing the side seam and sleeves together and adding the peplum, then I was done!

Here is the final top along with some Garment Designer patterned pants!

There are more extras to explore on Garment Designer…Until next time, happy crafting!

Walking Tour of Garment Designer

Walking Tour of Garment Designer

Walking Tour of Garment Designer

Walking Tour of Garment Designer Webinar invites you to take a tour of Garment Designer with Susan Lazear as your tour guide! Susan will show you Garment Designer’s main attractions as well as help you discover destinations you may not have known existed. This tour will help seasoned travelers and new tourists explore Cochenille’s pattern making software. So join us and take a scenic stroll through Garment Designer’s menus, shortcuts and capabilities to help you gain a sense of direction when navigating our program!

 

Garment Designer Software February Challenge: Hearts

Almost finished piece!

Susan, owner of Cochenille is sharing her heart-based design challenge. This is a Garment Designer software project. The inspiration for Susan’s project came from a store window in Italy. As you can see below, the sweater was uniquely different. So, photo time.. take a shot and file it away for another time.

Down the road a bit, Susan was embarking on a recycling project, and was looking for something to do, and remembered, not only her photo image, but also a garment she had purchased while taking a workshop with the Deco Belles in Napier New Zealand. Thus, you can see, this is becoming a global project.

 

The Inspiration

Inspiration sweater from a store window in Florence, Italy

And here is the sweater that became the candidate for reconstruction.

Original sweater, purchased in Napier, New Zealand in an Op Shop

The Pattern using Garment Designer Pattern Software

So, Susan developed a heart-shaped pattern in Garment Designer, and cut the pattern out of the original sweater, twice, once for the front and once for the back.

Sewing

To prevent the edges from fraying, the serger was used to finish the raw edges.

Serging the raw edges

Then, some of the original sweater was unraveled to obtain some yarn for crocheting around the edges.

Unraveling the original garment to obtain some yarn for finishing

Finishing

Here are a few shots of the crochet stitch going around the edges.

Crochet edging used to cover the served edges

And now.. the almost finished garment. Susan still wants to add another row of crochet, possibly in a coordinating fancier yarn… to be decided.

Almost finished piece!
Close-up of Front
Back view, arc of heart overlapping arc of heart. Modeled by Teresa, one of Cochenille’s staff.

So now fellow Cochenille users.. let’s see what you can do!

Vogue Knitting LIVE NY 2017

Vogue Knitting LIVE NY 2017

Vogue Knitting LIVE NY 2017

Vogue Knitting LIVE NY 2017 will kick off this year at the Marriot Marquis in New York City, NY. Vogue Knitting LIVE is a one-of-a-kind, experiential knitting event. Take hand-knitting workshops on fit and shaping, pattern writing, lace, socks, and more at all skill levels—the perfect class for you is here. Shop the Marketplace, which showcases new yarn and accessories from around the world. Watch non-stop designer fashion shows and browse the knitted art gallery. All of this and more in one weekend! If you’re a knitter, this is the event for you!

Come visit Cochenille Design Studio at booth 118 in the Marketplace. We will be offering Show and Bundle Specials. We can’t wait to see you there!

The Market place will open at 5:00pm January 13th-15th 2017

Marketplace hours are as follows:
Friday January 13th          5:00pm to 8:00 pm
Saturday January 14th   10:00 am to 6:30 pm
Sunday January 15th     10:00 am to 4:00 pm

Garment Designer: Did you know? (Part 2)

Garment Designer: Did you know? (Part 2)

This webinar is a continuation of “Garment Designer, Did you Know
Part 1”. It presents a list of things about Garment Designer that many
people don’t always know. Test your knowledge and increase your awareness
about using the software.

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