Patterning Using Garment Designer: Extra Extras! Read all about it!
I’ve been meaning to post some more details on how I made this fun top on Garment Designer using the Extras menu on Garment Designer.
I started off with a waist length contoured top with a boat neck and a bust dart then modified the pattern points.
I moved my dart down to make a french dart.
I brought the front neckline down a bit, shortened the sleeve and tried to get as little ease as possible since I wanted it to be pretty fitted for my knit fabric.
I also chose to use the Dressmaking Armhole since this style allows the front armhole to swing in slightly in the front, make a more comfortable fit for a top like this.
Now the fun part…adding the extras!
To add a collar, I went to the Extras menu and selected ‘Joined at Back‘.
This presented me with my collar options:
I wanted a full stand and used the band option. I made my band about 3″ tall on the pattern, as I wold be folding it in half for a 1- 1/2″ tall collar.
If you take a look at my sleeve edging, you will see I chose the longest option I could, which was 6″… but I wanted 8″.
I could have added a 2″ custom seam allowance to the sleeve edging (Additions > Custom Sleeve Allowance or keyboard shortcut ⌘+K).
I chose to attach at a 1:1 ratio so that the seam didn’t get too thick. I then added a 3:1 ratio for maximum flare.I did the same thing for my peplum by adding an edging to the hem of the shirt. I kept it at 6″ but elongated the back to 8″ and then played with the points to smooth the transition of the hem at the sides.
I added my seam allowances (1/4″ since I was using a knit fabric and will be using my serger) and printed it all out.
Cut it out of my fashion fabric…
Then began the sewing!
Since I just had to make this out of a white knit, I thought I would line the bodice with white for modesty.
I chose to use a white interlock fabric.
I will say in advance that the way I sewed this top up isn’t the only way, just the way I chose to order my steps as I went.
I wanted to have a clean seam at the neckline so my first step was to sew the shoulder seams of my fashion fabric then separately I sewed the shoulder seams of my lining.
I also made sure to mark my darts and really carefully snip out my notches. Normally to mark notches on a 1/4 seam I would cut outward triangles but this was a quick project so I went with tiny snips.
I sewed the center back of the collar together, folded it at the fold line and then made a long basting stitch in the seam allowance.I then basted the collar, right sides together, to the fashion fabric.
Then I pinned my lining on, sandwiching the collar between the self fabric and the lining, with my finished seams facing inwards towards each other.
I sewed the lining, collar and self fabric together then turned… No raw edge on the collar anymore!
Instead of closing the side seam and setting the sleeves into the armscye, I sewed them in flat and left the side seam open.
The last steps were sewing the side seam and sleeves together and adding the peplum, then I was done!
Here is the final top along with some Garment Designer patterned pants!
There are more extras to explore on Garment Designer…Until next time, happy crafting!